The rusty look is mostly dirty oil/grease and there is very little wear in the areas that matter. Even the cracked knuckle hinge on the drive arm is nothing that cannot be repaired or made from scratch. I'll be happy to strip this down to bare metal and put it back into service to watch it do what it was always good at again.
Monday, June 27, 2011
Things are shaping up
Over the last few years there has been the odd job that calls for broaching internal key ways for pulleys and lever cranks. My arbor or hydraulic h-frame presses can both be put to service with a good set of broaches. However that's is all they are good for and some things call for a more elegant if not antique solution. When this little(>350kg) 10" Alba 1a(circa late 1940) showed up I was not to concerned that it was missing a compound and clapper box:

The rusty look is mostly dirty oil/grease and there is very little wear in the areas that matter. Even the cracked knuckle hinge on the drive arm is nothing that cannot be repaired or made from scratch. I'll be happy to strip this down to bare metal and put it back into service to watch it do what it was always good at again.
The rusty look is mostly dirty oil/grease and there is very little wear in the areas that matter. Even the cracked knuckle hinge on the drive arm is nothing that cannot be repaired or made from scratch. I'll be happy to strip this down to bare metal and put it back into service to watch it do what it was always good at again.
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Bit of quiet time to set up
Since my last update I've had my hands full with a large project at work, second child and then getting seconded into IT management. However things have not been standing still.
I was recently in the process of selling my little 9x20 lathe in order to fund purchase of an Enco 12x36 fixer-upper. The Enco was an older 1980's 3phase belt drive, missing a back gear for lower spindle rpm and a following steady. I could sort out a steady though the back gear would be a mission. If driven by VFD I could still get the full range of RPM.
Trupro 9x20 after a clean:

Two days after I helped deliver the 9x20 I got an offer on a newer gear head 12x36 complete with all original accessories and a larger motor. Pretty much ready to use for NZ$300 more than what I sold the 9x20 for. I'd prefer the belt drive but a newer machine with parts available and a gap bed that will take 19" swing was too tempting.
Hafco 12x36 prior to pickup:

All the chucks and accessories together weigh more than the 9x20. In fact the workspace of the new lathe is larger than the whole 9x20!

Till recently I was using an old 180A AC/DC HF transformer welder. I replaced the rectifier diodes and fitted it with a powered gas-thru fitting on the front cover to take modern torches. It was never used to weld aluminium as the power requirements were higher than the rated supply of my shop. In general anything thicker than 5mm would be a challenge in DC to.

I sold it and purchased a 160A DC inverter unit.

Later I also got a 50A inverter plasma cutter.

Currently working on a H-frame hydraulic press and a tube bend former to bend stainlesss up to 32mm.
I was recently in the process of selling my little 9x20 lathe in order to fund purchase of an Enco 12x36 fixer-upper. The Enco was an older 1980's 3phase belt drive, missing a back gear for lower spindle rpm and a following steady. I could sort out a steady though the back gear would be a mission. If driven by VFD I could still get the full range of RPM.
Trupro 9x20 after a clean:
Two days after I helped deliver the 9x20 I got an offer on a newer gear head 12x36 complete with all original accessories and a larger motor. Pretty much ready to use for NZ$300 more than what I sold the 9x20 for. I'd prefer the belt drive but a newer machine with parts available and a gap bed that will take 19" swing was too tempting.
Hafco 12x36 prior to pickup:
All the chucks and accessories together weigh more than the 9x20. In fact the workspace of the new lathe is larger than the whole 9x20!
Till recently I was using an old 180A AC/DC HF transformer welder. I replaced the rectifier diodes and fitted it with a powered gas-thru fitting on the front cover to take modern torches. It was never used to weld aluminium as the power requirements were higher than the rated supply of my shop. In general anything thicker than 5mm would be a challenge in DC to.
I sold it and purchased a 160A DC inverter unit.
Later I also got a 50A inverter plasma cutter.
Currently working on a H-frame hydraulic press and a tube bend former to bend stainlesss up to 32mm.
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Another generation
Added more than a few kilograms with the increased 'engineering' which I'll happily balance out in the rear. the 60x40 box section in the gooseneck was recycled from a scrapped gooseneck in an earlier project. Keeping rubber to the road means I'll track better and transfer more power from the rig.

The footpegs came off the Moosetruck as I made them to heavy. As part of this I made another set to lighten up the front on the Moosetruck. Got the first set of tinted elastomers out of the mold ready for testing too.
The footpegs came off the Moosetruck as I made them to heavy. As part of this I made another set to lighten up the front on the Moosetruck. Got the first set of tinted elastomers out of the mold ready for testing too.
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Getting a good fit
After a full day making aluminium tinsel on the milling machine I now have a full set of female molds that make a good job of casting the elastomers. Surprisingly quick if you have access to a 1.25" drill and a micrometer boring head. Actually took longer to halve the stock and square it with the facemill.

Using an old pressure cooker for a vacuum degassing chamber helped keep the bubbles to a minimum. I might try running pressure on a set to see what works best.
Next update: leading link front for the barrow race buggy.
Using an old pressure cooker for a vacuum degassing chamber helped keep the bubbles to a minimum. I might try running pressure on a set to see what works best.
Next update: leading link front for the barrow race buggy.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Bring a friend to the dunes
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Rubberly
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Running in
I've spent over a week working late winter nights to get it running for the midwinter BBBB event. You know you've been rushed as you do your final assembly and first sit in the buggy on the beach.

Springboard axle was a surprising success. Running over washboard ruts on the beach I soon realised that I was hearing the wheels on the ruts and not feeling them. Normally hard turns would break traction early in these conditions. With no axle tramp and reduced wheel bounce I had a hard time sliding this buggy.
Footrest came out nice but very heavy. I'll build another lighter set. However the weight balance was spot on the few times I got to break the wheels loose in a slide. Do need to trim the mudflap though.


Things to finish:
Shorten the stirrups
Trim the mudflap
Replace the velcro on the seatbelt quick release
Finish the GPS mount on the goose neck
Replace the elastomers with an unpigmented set
Clean up all the final details
Springboard axle was a surprising success. Running over washboard ruts on the beach I soon realised that I was hearing the wheels on the ruts and not feeling them. Normally hard turns would break traction early in these conditions. With no axle tramp and reduced wheel bounce I had a hard time sliding this buggy.
Footrest came out nice but very heavy. I'll build another lighter set. However the weight balance was spot on the few times I got to break the wheels loose in a slide. Do need to trim the mudflap though.
Things to finish:
Shorten the stirrups
Trim the mudflap
Replace the velcro on the seatbelt quick release
Finish the GPS mount on the goose neck
Replace the elastomers with an unpigmented set
Clean up all the final details
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